Practical Information

BY AIR
The most reliable air links are via Gauteng (former Johannesburg) in South Africa where there are many flights a day to Gaborone. There are also regular flights from Namibia and Zimbabwe. European airlines do not fly into Gaborone direct. Air Botswana provides international flights from Gaborone to Johannesburg, Harare and Victoria Falls and internal flights to Francistown, Maun and Kasane. Other air charter services are highly developed around the main tourist destinations.

BY ROAD
Botswana is accessible by tarred road from all neighboring countries. There are a number of connections by main roads from South Africa to Gaborone and important tourist destinations. Border posts are open by day only. Main roads in Botswana are tarred and driving conditions are good. However, minor roads can be treacherous in the wet season and petrol stations can be scarce in certain parts of the country. Four-wheel-drive vehicles that carry water, fuel and necessary provisions are recommended for safaris.

VISAS
Visitors from the European Union, most Commonwealth countries and the USA do not require visas. Visitors from other countries should check with Botswana embassies or consulates.

CLOTHING
Comfortable casual clothes are recommended for holidays in Botswana. Hats are important, as it can be very hot by day. In some parts it may be cold by night so a fleece, coat or jersey can be used. Long sleeved clothes reduce the risk of mosquito bites. Brightly coloured or white clothes are not recommended on safari as they can disturb the animals. Sun-block cream, insect repellents and dark glasses are highly recommended.

HEALTH
Malaria is a serious problem especially in the north of the country. The mosquito is becoming increasingly resistant to drugs. Get medical advice on what malaria tablets to take before leaving and start taking anti-malaria tablets at least a week before entering Botswana and keep taking the tablets for a further week thereafter. Bilharzia is also endemic and swimming in untreated water is dangerous. Tick bite fever can be a problem when walking in grass. Travelers should also be aware that the incidence of AIDS is high throughout southern Africa including Botswana. It is safe to drink water in urban centres but check elsewhere. All immunization against tetanus, typhoid and yellow fever should be completed before departure to Botswana.

PUBLIC CAMPS
Advance booking should be made with the Department of Wildlife and National Parks to stay in the national parks. You may contact Jeanette for further information.

TELEPHONE COMMUNICATIONS
Botswana has a sophisticated telecommunications system with good fibre optic lines ensuring a widespread and reliable service for mobile phones, but most of the lodges and camps are beyond the range of the mobile phone network. A change to a seven-digit numbering system is expected to be introduced in 2002. The international dialing code is 267 and there are no city or regional codes, Directory enquires: 192

ELECTRICITY
230 volt A/C 50hz. Both square and round wall plugs are used.

Your Questions Answered        by Chris McIntyre

Chris McIntyre first traveled to Botswana in 1988, and since then, has spent many months researching Botswana’s more remote areas as a travel writer, photographer and author. Few know the country’s secrets better. He has written several guidebooks to Southern Africa, including two on Botswana. He’s now working on a third for 2002. Here he answers your questions with detailed, practical advice that comes with years of experience.

What distinguishes Botswana from other African countries for the visitor?

Although it’s not the only place in Africa to see big game, northern Botswana has probably the largest area in the region under continuous wildlife management. What’s more, it has a diversity of environments that’s very difficult to beat, from the Kalahari desert to the center of the Okavango delta. So Botswana has a tremendous area of wilderness with variation in both the spectacular scenery and the wildlife. Tourist vehicles can get really close to the feasting lions.

Photo: Chris McIntyre

Does Botswana offer anything unique as far as tourism is concerned?

Botswana’s parks and reserves are quite peerless; they’re totally different from those that you find anywhere else in Africa. The Okavango is beyond comparison, the Kalahari is completely different to the Namib or the Sahara deserts and the game in the Chobe and Linyanti region is unrivalled when at its peak. Then there are the unique attractions of the Tsodilo and Aha Hills, the Nxai and Makgadikgadi saltpans, and of course the Tuli Block. Botswana has some of the top safari attractions in Africa.

Photo: Wilderness Safaris

Is Botswana a safe tourist destination?

Yes - it’s exceedingly safe. Your main health hazard is putting on weight due to the delicious meals, while crime at safari camps is virtually unknown Botswana is one of the most prosperous countries in sub-Saharan Africa, thanks to large reserves of diamonds, and the stable government is democratic and generally well respected. Good government of prosperous people has led to long-term stability.

Are Botswana holidays only available to the exceptionally well-heeled tourists?

Tourism to Botswana has changed over the years. In the late 1980s, Botswana’s government realized their national parks had no facilities and so could not cope with too many visitors. They sharply increased park fees to reduce the number of visitors, signaling the start of their high cost, low density tourism policy. This wisely sidestepped the cheap mass tourism that was embraced from Spain to Mombasa, and instead effectively dedicated large swathes of land to wildlife and attendant exclusive safari camps. So yes, none of Botswana’s attractions are cheap - but most are very good value considering the pristine nature of the country.

Photo: Wilderness Safaris

Surely smaller, simpler camps must be cheaper than posh lodges?

Yes - but not by very much, as what you're really paying for is virtually exclusive use to pristine areas. There's little difference between a tiny bush-camp and the largest lodge. The bush-camp may be basic, but the bigger lodge can make economies of scale. If anything, there’s increasingly a premium on space in the smaller camps. These need booking earlier as many find these friendlier than the larger ones.

What is meant by a ‘tented camp’?

Forget memories of cramped scout tents; think instead of canvas designer chic. Botswana’s camps are increasingly stylish. En-suite flushing toilets, running hot and cold water and battery-powered lights are standard, while many have electric fans. A few have air conditioning, but you don’t visit Botswana simply for its creature comforts.

Photo: Chris McIntyre

Is there any way that the less affluent traveler can cut costs and still enjoy a Botswana holiday?

Backpacking is fine to get around and between the main towns, but you can’t easily get into the wilder areas like this. Driving yourself is one possibility but you’ll need a fully equipped 4WD, with all your food, water, fuel and some bush-sense. Roads are usually without signposts and full of ruts and there’s no AA service. Campsites are remote and may be basic, often without even water. In short, it’s great fun ... but not a trip to be undertaken lightly. First-time visitors to Botswana shouldn’t even think about driving themselves, as without considerable experience of the bush, they can have serious problems. Getting lost is very easy; getting stuck is almost inevitable. Dangerous wildlife wanders though the camp sites at will and while having your vehicle surrounded by Elephants sounds fun, it can be terrifying if you don't know how to react safely.

Photo: Chris McIntyre

Is it true that tourists can enjoy Botswana the year round? What are the best seasons to visit?

Yes - although some areas are highly seasonal in their game densities. Ibm about December to March it will often rain - usually in short, torrential downpours in the late afternoon - and it’s often dry for the rest of the day. The vegetation is lush at this time and photographers will note that the air clarity is unparalleled. The animals will disperse away from the rivers and permanent water sources, so game viewing in some areas is less prolific. However, the bird life is now at its most prolific, and many species are in breeding plumage. From April to November the land dries out, and gradually the game, which had moved into the interior of the Kalahari, returns to the permanent waters of the Okavango, Linyanti and Chobe. Thus it’s easier to spot. However, the bush is much less lush and dustier towards the end of the dry season.

Some of the camps in northern Botswana are pretty remote. How do I get there?

Virtually all of Botswana’s camps are reached by light aircraft, which operate like a flexible taxi service around the north of the country using Maim and Kasane as ‘hubs’. Kasane is only an hour’s drive from Victoria Falls, and hence many visit the falls at the start or end of a Botswana trip.

Do different types of accommodation provide different daily activities?

No - but different ai~as do. Deep in the northern side of the delta and the panhandle, you’ll find camps in deep-water areas that only offer motorboat trips (birding and fishing). Further south in the Delta, mokoro excursions visit shallower water areas. Thin, for the experienced, there are home-riding safaris and for the very affluent, elephant-back safaris. In drier areas, camps concentrate on game drives and walking safaris. At the end of the spectrum, Jack’s Camp uses quad-bikes for transport - avoiding damage to the fragile crust of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans.

Photo: Chris McIntyre

How long should we spend in each camp?

About three nights per camp is normal: four is great at a particularly good camp with a range of activities, and two nights is often long enough for the camps which concentrate only on water activities.

What are private mobile safaris, and what are their pros and cons compared with fly-in trips?

Mobile safaris are trips for small groups with a professional guide, tents and equipment. Your camp is taken with you and set up at different places. More expensive mobile trips come with a team of camp lackeys, starched linen bed sheets and crystal goblets. On cheaper trips expect to muck in, put up your own tent and drink from a tin mug. Mobile safaris usually use the national parks rather than the private concessions. Many use the route from Victoria Falls through Chobe to Maun. For a group of 4 - 8 friends, an average mobile will work out cheaper than camps and give a real sense of adventure. That said, the small tents are little more than places to sleep and you’ll be on the move fairly constantly with little respite. You can’t just go and lie down if your tent’s packed onto the back of the 4WD.

Photo: Chris McIntyre

Can children go on safari to the lodges?

Policies will differ, but generally children of 12 and over are treated just like adults. Many camps won’t allow children under that age, though a few do. (Sandibe and Kwara are notable for making special arrangements to make children welcome.)

Where is it best to see big game?

There is first-class game viewing all over northern Botswana - in the Okavango, Moremi, Linyanhi.. and Chobe areas - plus some interesting options in the Tuli Block. The Central Kalahari reserves also have great game, thought their main attraction is the remote sense of wilderness. Talk to someone who knows the fine details of these areas, their seasons and the various options available.

Should I stay in camps inside or Outside the National Parks?

Botswana's Parks have long been protected and their animals are very relaxed. However, they are public and you may see many other vehicles while game-viewing. Park rules still strictly forbid any walking or driving off-road or at night. Around the national parks much of northern Botswana is divided into huge ‘concessions’ or private reserves. Each is leased to a safari operator who can accept a limited number of guests - eg, the 1 ,260sq km Linyanti Concession can take about 66 guests at any one time, split between four small camps. That’s a minimum of 22sq km for each guest! In most cases , professional guides are allowed to drive off-road and lead spot lit night drives, as well as walks with guests - so offering more variation than camps within the parks.

Photo: Chris McIntyre

Is Botswana really the best place to see wild dogs in Africa - and where exactly should I go?

Yes - along with the Serengeti it probably is.You can see dogs anywhere; they move fast and range wide over northern Botswana. However, to track them down you need to move fast, so choose an area with lots of wide-open tree-less plains, outside the park, so your guide can drive off-road at speed. Mombo, in the heart of the Delta, has an enviable reputation - a huge resident pack of dogs helped to make the camp’s name some years ago. However, if you can’t afford the premium in Mombos prices, then Vumbura (they denned there last year), Kwara, Kwando and the Selinda areas are top of my list. These are the right open environments, and I’ve tracked dogs across all of them. The wild dogs here seem to den around June to September. Then they will stay around the same area for two to three months while their puppies are young. So ideally find out where a pack is denning, and go there to guarantee sightings. Responsible guides will restrict the sightings, and keep their distance, so their vehicles don't worry the pack. Note that the Kwando and Kwara reserves use trackers as well as guides, and are good at finding dogs for determined clients.

What about Lions?

They're the most commen of the large predators, and so you’ve a good chance of seeing them in most of the parks and private reserves.

And leopards?

Spotting leopards anywhere in Africa is tricky - and it’s always best to choose someone that can take you on night drives with experienced guides. I'd try one of the more wooded areas - Chitabe or Sandibe would be high on my list. Having said that, I’ve had a number of good sightings during the day in the Xakanaxa area of Moremi. The game densities are very high here and, perhaps because of the people around, the animals are totally nonchalant about visitors and vehicles.

Photo: Chris McIntyre

Is Botswana a good place for bird watching? Where should the ornithologist go?

There is first-class bird viewing all over northern Botswana - in the Okavango, Moremi, Linyanti, and Chobe areas - plus some interesting options in the Tuli block. The reserves in the Kalahari also have a great variety thought the main attraction is their remote sense of wilderness.

Where can I find the most spectacular dunes in the Kalahari?

That’s a difficult one as, despite its name, the Kalahari is a fossil desert, not a real one. So forget dreams of The English Patient - it’s not like that. The Kalahari is a huge sand sheet which gets much more rain than a desert should, and is covered in bush. Only the sand underfoot, and the undulating landscape; gives away its origins.

Photo: Chris McIntyre

Do you recommend any organized foot safaris where pedestrians can view game?

Yes - though only a few of Botswana’s camps and lodges really specialize in walking safaris. The Selinda Reserve, beside the Linyanti Swamps, is probably the best place for these - as here you can spend several days just walking from small ‘bush camps’. For those who are less serious and want to take it more gently many camps such as Mokolodi near Gaborone can organize a few hours walk. Be aware, though if there is dangerous game around, you should always ensure that you’re walking with an experienced guide who is armed and trained.